Jumaat, 28 Mac 2014

Jigging

video

Pengenalan teknik-teknik memancing yang kerap di praktik kan oleh pemancing-pemancing di Malaysia. Antara teknik-teknik memancing adalah Jigging. Apa itu teknik jigging?.

Teknik ini mengilat secara mengujun (henjut) menggunakan umpan tiruan yang di panggil ‘jig’. Jig biasanya diperbuat daripada kepingan timah/objek berat kemudian dibentuk seperti ikan dan dicat dengan warna garang dan terang yang luminous atau lutsinar.



Teknik ini memerlukan ketekunan dan stamina tinggi kerana pemancing perlu beraksi sepanjang masa bagi mengunjun jig supaya ia menjadi efektif. Jig akan dihulurkan ke dasar kemudian dikarau kembali dengan kepantasan yang tinggi sambil mengujun joran berselang seli ketika proses karauan laju. Teknik yang menjadi kegilaan masa kini boleh dilakukan sama ada siang dan malam. Info tecknik jigging



Gambar diatas menunjukkan teknik-teknik jigging, para pemancing boleh mempraktikkan teknik jigging ini dengan berberapa cara mengarau jig. Lihat gambarajah dibawah bagi melihat tiga cara mengarau.


 Pemilihan joran.

Joran jigging memerlukan kekuatan yang besar karena beban umpan yang bisa mencapai lebih dari 500gm, semua joran jigging mempunyai fast action tapper. Panjang joran jigging bervariasi mulai dari 5 kaki hingga 7 kaki. Joran jigging mempunyai 2 model iaitu overhead dan spinning, beberapa jenama terkenal mengeluarkan 1 jenis joran yang sama dengan model overhead dan spinning. Walaupun joran jigging mempunyai rating sampai dengan 100lbs, joran model overhead tetap menggunakan line guide berupa ring, bukan roller seperti pada joran trolling. Ring guide menggunakan bahan dasar metal alloy atau silicon carbide untuk menahan gesekan kenur braided.


 

 BERSAMBUNG
 Info dari-:

http://akilpancing.wordpress.com/2011/03/31/hello-world/

A b
eginners guide to jigging - PART 1

Last updated 13:15 03/09/2009

JOSH MORRISON

With mechanical jigging really making an impression in New Zealand over the last few years, our local market has been flooded with all types of the latest and greatest specialist jigging rods, reels, jigs and terminal tackle.

This is great for fanatics like me, but more often than not it leaves the average ‘weekend warrior’ scratching his head wondering where to start.

This is the first part of a jigging guide I have put together to help answer a lot of those questions. It aims to give you a better understanding of this method of fishing from start to finish. In this article I will cover the basic technique involved in mechanical jigging, and discuss the rods and reels required. (I have also filmed short video clips based on different parts of this and subsequent articles, and you can view them on YouTube.

Some people, including me, are more visual learners, as opposed to trying to understand something by reading about it.)

My jig-fishing skills have developed over the last few years through many hours on the water and by fishing with experienced jig-fishers, many of whom helped me out with information and tips when I was new to the sport (I will acknowledge some of them later)

This series deals with modern tackle used for mechanical jigging – not the old school speed-jigging with fast-taper fibreglass rods and high-speed reels spooled with monofilament.

Finally, before we get into it, I would like to point out that I don’t work in the fishing industry, nor am I affiliated with any of the companies or brands mentioned in the following articles.

Early days
The art of ‘mechanical jigging’ was pioneered in the early 1990s by Japanese angler Yoichi Mogi. It was Mogi who also largely influenced the development of suitable rods, reels and jigs for this extremely effective method of fishing.

Mechanical jigging has spread to many areas of the world, thanks to guys like Yoichi, Okada San, Konishi San and Pony Liu travelling around and targeting various sportfish, promoting the sport, their respective fishing tackle brands, and filming their fishing adventures in world-class areas. These have included New Zealand destinations such as the Three Kings Islands, White Island and the Ranfurly Banks.

Here in New Zealand we can thank Chris Wong of BCS Enterprises, who has been the driving force behind the sport, along with specialist stores like Yeehaa Fishing Tackle in Auckland, which hosts free seminars to promote the sport and educate newcomers to this addictive form of fishing.

Okay, so let’s move on from our little history lesson and take a look at the basic technique involved in mechanical jigging, which in this case involves using an overhead reel, even though a good spinning outfit can also be very effective.

Doing the dance
The main aim while mechanical jigging is to get the jig ‘dancing’ its way up through the water column (or part of the water column, depending on where the fish are), so predatory species are enticed into biting. This is done with smooth (and/or erratic) lifts and drops of the rod while retrieving line at the same time.

Start with the rod’s butt section under your left armpit (for a left-hand-wind reel it would be under the right armpit), your thumb and index finger gripping around the side-plate of the reel, and the remaining fingers curling around the rod. Next, point the rod down toward the water, click the reel into free-spool and drop the jig to the bottom. When the jig touches down, quickly put the reel into gear and get the jig up away from the bottom with a wind or two to help prevent getting snagged. With the rod pointing down and the reel’s handle hanging downwards, take a lift of the rod up to an angle of around 45-degrees; at the same time take half a wind of the handle, which would leave it at the top of the rotation.

Next, drop the rod again, and at the same time take a half wind of the reel downwards. Now slowly and smoothly put the up-stroke of the rod and reel handle and the down-stroke of the rod and reel handle into one smooth motion. (To see my video clip demonstrating this basic technique, please type the following web address into your internet web address bar: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuqdlC1HAiI.)

This is the basic technique involved and just a starting point. You can jig using this technique at a fast/slow/moderate pace, or mix it up and add a pause in there – or even a yo-yo motion – the choice is yours. On days out jigging I have experienced times when the fishing has been slow and the slightest change in technique has made all the difference, so don’t be afraid to mix it up a bit from time to time.

Reels
The first thing you need to decide on is whether to use a spinning or an overhead reel. Both have their pros and cons, so in the end it’s up to you and what you feel most comfortable using. Ideally, try to get out on a trip with a jig-fishing friend who has the gear, give it a go and see what you think. However, there are also a few charter operators around that specialise in jigging, have the gear available to hire, and can tutor you through this addictive form of fishing.
Let’s take a look at some of the pros and cons to help you decide what might best suit your needs.

Spinning reels
Pros: the larger spinning reels can exert more drag pressure than overhead reel models; they have similar line capacities as overhead reels; you don’t have to lay the line with your thumb when retrieving; when fighting fish with a spinning reel, you can grab and hold the foregrip with a closed-hand grip, as opposed to an overhead reel’s open-handed grip; and if the boat is drifting quickly, you can cast your jig ahead of your drift direction.

Cons: they generally cost more than overheads; there aren’t many models available in New Zealand, especially in the lower price range; you have to flip the bail-arm over to release line and then re-engage when the line touches down on the bottom; there is more chance of getting snagged on the bottom (unless really paying attention), as you have to see the braid go slack when the jig hits the bottom and immediately flick the bail arm over to take up the slack; it is also harder to detect hits on the drop unless paying attention and watching the line for sudden stops or jerks mid-water – and even if you do, they’re harder to hook, as you have to flick the bail-arm over before striking first. Also, when wound onto the spool, the leader material has a tendency to spring off again very easily if any slack occurs, especially if using fluorocarbon leaders, and as the braid is on the underside of the rod and will be under tension when hooked up to a good fish, if you’re short in stature it can touch the boat transom or rail and bust-off.

Overhead reels
Pros: They are generally cheaper than a spinning reel; more models suitable for jigging are available; they offer much greater control and feel when your jig is on the drop, so you’re more likely to hook a fish that hits on the way down; and there’s less chance of getting snagged on the bottom if paying attention.

Cons: You have to lay line with your thumb when fighting a fish (not while jigging); less drag pressure is at your disposal than with larger spinning reels; less grip is provided on the rod when fighting a fish, due to an open-handed grip underneath the rod.

Rods
When looking through the selection of jigging rods in your local tackle store, you will see most are short in length – around 1.5-1.7m (5’ to 5’6”). They are light, parabolic in action and, most of all, very powerful.
Somewhere on the lower part of the rod above the foregrip you will generally find a recommended gram rating, PE rating, maximum drag rating, and possibly a dead lift (test) rating. Let’s look at these to get a better understanding of what they mean and how they can affect your rod selection.

Gram rating: The rod’s gram rating describes the jig weights well suited to the rod’s action. Most rods can work jigs 100 grams either side of the gram rating; for example, while a 300-gram rod is best with 300-gram lures, it can still handle jigs from 200-400 grams.

PE rating: Although you will be used to seeing line-weight ratings on rods already (e.g. 6-10kg), with jigging we use superbraid (polyethylene or PE) and this is rated on a PE scale. You can roughly convert PE ratings into breaking-strain poundage by simply adding a 0 (e.g. PE3 = 30lb, PE4 = 40lb and so on). However, as I said, this is a rough conversion, as you can bet your bottom dollar that most braids (unless IGFA rated) break quite a bit above their stated rating. This means a PE6-8 rod should be fished with PE6 to PE8 braid (60lb-80lb line).

Max drag: This is the maximum amount of reel-drag pressure that can be used over the rod. As an example, Synit rods have a maximum drag rating that’s measured at 45 degrees (angle of the bent rod), which, when using the correct fish-fighting technique, should be about as high as you lift the rod.

Dead lift (test): This rating is the maximum amount of weight the rod blank is capable of lifting (in controlled conditions), so should not be – I repeat, NOT BE – tried by anyone else other than the rod manufacturers themselves.

We are lucky enough to have some of the world’s leading brands of rods available in New Zealand, along with our very own Kiwi-designed, developed and built rods, which in my opinion rival any of the big brands from Asian countries. Currently the high-end specialist jigging brands available include: Synit (Kiwi made); Smith; Jigging Master; and Jigstar – although there are also rods available from brands such as Kilwell, Shimano, Daiwa etc that are not quite at the same level but still do the job and are a little friendlier on the bank balance.

When selecting a rod and reel outfit, the most sensible thing to ask is: where am I likely to be doing most of my fishing and what is the average size of fish I’m likely to catch there? Based on this, here is a fairly safe guide to what is required at the following popular jigging destinations: Three Kings Islands, 400g-plus lures and PE6-PE10 braid; Bay Of Islands, 250-350g, running PE4-PE6 braid; Hauraki Gulf, 200-300g running PE3-PE6 braid; Coromandel, 250-350g running PE4-PE6 braid; Tauranga (Mayor Island), 300-400g, running PE5-PE8 braid; Whakatane (White Island), 350-450g running PE6-PE8 braid; Ranfurly Banks, 400g-plus running PE6-PE10 braid; Kapiti, 300-400g running PE5-PE8 braid.

It is advisable for guys and gals just getting into jig-fishing to start out with something on the heavier side – 350g-400g rods that fish PE6-PE8, say. This helps to reduce the number of fish busted off and left swimming around towing a jig and leader material. Once you are confident with the heavier gear, it’s up to you if you want to purchase a lighter set and have a bit more sport.

No matter what weight gear you use though, once you experience first-hand what its like to be hooked up to a big, rampaging reef donkey, you’ll be hooked – and there is no turning back. So just go with it and let the

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